I preserved the first part of that black poly pipe. Evan double checked our main water valve to make sure it was off all the way. There are two spots you can do this- at your main water valve where the supply line goes into your house usually around one of your hose faucets outside or near the street where your meter is. Gather as many as you have, attics are dark. It was found in some cases to react with oxidants in the water supply, which caused the pipe to become brittle and fail. Everyone should consider replacing it all. Spray it onto the joints where your pipe is connected, and try to get some of it to go into the threading.
The plumber who came in said that he won't be able to install it because the pipe that comes from the ground hooked up to the copper pipe is plastic. Be gentle — hand-tighten until it seats, then crank in an additional half turn. My last mower had a plastic cover that always fell off, eventually cracked which made it fall off more often. Plus we will be able to use most of the items again for future projects. The crimper eliminates that possibility.
After expanding, place the tubing and ring onto the fitting or valve. Of course, they will check when they reach your home. For pressure drop purposes, it reduces pressure loss to go to a bigger pipe for the longer distance, up from a smaller fitting. Step One - Ready Indoor Plumbing Before you install your water meter, all of the interior plumbing must be ready to accept water. A water heater is one such example. It claims to stop calcium deposits not only on faucets, shower heads, glass shower doors, stainless steel sinks and dishes in dishwasher, but also eventually cleaning all the deposits from the inside of pipes. Thanks for contributing an answer to Home Improvement Stack Exchange! Luckily there was pretty much no water to deal with this time.
My guess is that it was done at the same time as these fittings because it has a piece of black poly on the vertical portion of it. Grounding not a problem because the house is grounded via the electrical supply. From here you pretty much do the same thing as you do on the other end. Step 5 - Complete Installation Install the meter with the ¾ inch connectors. A water heater is one such example. In response to that pain point, Uponor engineered a water meter offering that solves the problem.
I still recomend type L soft copper on my water main replacments. How do we spend our Saturday nights these days? But before we pushed it into the adapter, we needed to straighten it the best we could. To break loose difficult pipes increase the length of the pipe wrenches. Celebrate with late night cheeseburgers! Just pop it in and stop at your inch mark. And then of course, rip out the old pipe with your bare hands and growl at it. We busted out our new pipe wrench, clamped it on, gave it a tug and… nothing.
You're probably gonna have to transition to metal pipe at the water heater anyway, why not use bronze unions and a gate or ball valve on the cold side on the metal stubs out the top of the heater? The mounting bracket holds the meter and piping in place while securing the system around the fittings or valves. People are finally waking up that this 40 year old material is reliable and h as many advantages over copper. This fitting was plastic and screwed onto the galvanized while the other end accepted the pex and had a screw type fitting that I simply had to hand turn to secure the fitting. However, they do insist that all the other plumbing be ready to go, whether you install it yourself or have a professional install it. There was a steady stream of water trickling from our pipes filling up our tray surprisingly fast. These brackets are specifically designed to hold the weight of the water meter.
A copper stub-out elbow and a copper pipe will do. Luckily, I remembered I had some throw away 9×9 baking pans so I ran down to the kitchen and got those, because our single tray was not going to hold out much longer. This helps break up any rust in there. Then a couple more feet finally we transition to galvanized. As we straightened it we fed it under the boards on the floor along the length of the original pipe. My opinions of plastics in general are they are cheap, short lived, and weak.
My dad lives in Texas, and his sewer is billed based on his winter time average water usage. It's impossible to tell from the picture what type of pipe that is, but based on the plumbers concern I'd guess it is Polybutylene. I for some reason decided to do this on Labor Day so my options were reduced to what I can find at stores like Home Depot. Meanwhile, I hung out in the attic scooping water out from the original tray, having flashbacks to a I finally got enough out to move it, then Evan came back and shut off the water at the meter. I can see my wife and I doing a similar project in the near future. Get a 2 or 3 foot piece of pipe that will fit over the handles of the pipe wrenches. I admit though, that I have to agree with Tim in the comments section from 2013, that the union between the galvanized steel pipe and brass or copper anything needs to be dielectric.