That way a fork suspension could give a more comfortable ride and at the same time deliver the control needed to deal with challenging situations. Now I have the same feeling I used to have with my Deuce. On my first ride, I noted that the handlebar, which previously had kicked back, puttered and been active in my hands over bumps was now quiet as the fork was absorbing bumps that previously had been passed along. Paul Thede presents a detailed explanation about how his Emulators works on a couple of Youtube videos. There was something different about the ride quality. Step 9: Remove the lower brake hose routing bracket.
I'm pointing out the section that was gripping and doing the work in the second photo. I've found that a cement block under the exhaust fits perfectly. Ensure the threaded extension of the check valve assembly is centered in the cap. Remove the pinch bolt at the bottom of the tube 10mm and slide out the sleeve, to give yourself access to the allen bolt from the bottom. Because the suspensions in his bikes were typically adjustable, gas-charged cartridges he was known to tinker with the suspension on a regular basis. They are much too soft and spongy… and importantly, too long! Drill the holes, then remove any burrs and lightly chamfer the holes with a small round file. When I sold the forks, I lowered the oil height to 120mm, and they were noticeably more compliant.
I felt like I was in control of the bike but at the same time the suspension smoothed out the going beautifully. While the tube is fully compressed use the tool to suck out excess oil to desired level. I can't emphasize what you said enough: A drill press is required. They need to be enlarged with a drill press. You cannot drill the rods out using a hand held drill - you're liable to just hurt yourself, ruin your bits, and wedge the drill in the hole. If you want to retain the stock gauges you have to fab up some sort of mount. He asked for my weight, would I carry a passenger no , did I carry luggage yes, often full camping gear , how did I ride aggressively , and how did I want it to ride toward the taut, well-controlled side.
I'll eventually pull them apart, replace the oil, increase the height a little, and continue working from there. Step 6: Remove the lower speedometer cable routing bracket, it's 10mm and will stay connected to the cable. I'm duboius about many dealers giving me expert advice. Simply put, Emulators make damping rod forks perform like well-tuned cartridge forks. Anyone know of a 'Terry Hayes' equivalent on the Gold Coast or in the Brisbane area.
Yours is probably a one time use pin. Every issue delivers exciting and evocative articles and photographs of the most brilliant, unusual and popular motorcycles ever made! Damping with original holes and damping rod with extra holes This system enables the rider to rely on more adjustment options than oil viscosity and volume and the number and size of the holes in the damping rod. Then throw your pads back in, mount that bad boy up, and slap yourself for pulling the brake lever. In a nutshell, the emulator valve responds to the speed of the fork allowing oil to flow as needed to relieve compression, smoothing out the ride. I found a great installing the Gold Valve Cartridge Emulators and the factory service manual also does a good job of explaining the fork seals. Cut the spacers down, I used a dremmel again.
It isn't very hard to get back in there once you know your way around. Pretty easy stuff and no special tools required. It's controlled, doesn't dive excessively, firm yet plush at the same time. I have a set but haven't gotten around to trying them. So; how did the idea for the little wonders come about? This will help low speed fork response over road bumps and such.
It would glide in and out of turns and keep you glued to the road. If you have really stiff springs or a lot of preload you may need a mate to help you out with this, I was fine solo mio. I had emulators placed in the front and gold valved the standard rear. Step 21: Set the fork oil level. The emulator is a device that installs within each fork tube and sits below the fork spring. Then measure the gap between the zip tie and the seal with the fork fully extended. As for weight, depends on the the valving.
But after spending all that money, and with all the headache for the gauges, steering stem, and getting a touring handle bar to fit, it still wouldn't perform as well as these forks will. I had to knock it off the drift with a rubber mallet. This way, the ride is stiffer but not ungodly stiff , the bike rides a bit higher in the stroke, and it eats bumps like crazy. After that is when I made my preload turns. There is a driveway lip that I ride over going to my home and for some reason that one lip was a harsh hit every time I hit it.
Remove the bolts and slide the caliper off of the rotor. Step 12: Remove the top cap 19mm be careful it is under pressure, but not a ton from the factory, just don't let it go flying off. Removing all of these will also release the upper speedometer cable routing bracket. Step 18: Reinstall the damping rod into the fork tube. Now comes the theory about springs. Replacing the rear shocks is a simple nut and bolt affair, but note the left upper bracket; we had to file off a small amount of metal to clear the top of the shock body. Worth the money but get an expert to do it not just the local mechanic, which may not be so easy to find in down town Hobart.